Three days at Kruger: lions, elephants, and the balloon we didn’t get to fly

Lionesses resting together in the bush in the greater Kruger area

After Madagascar, we flew to Johannesburg to start the final leg of the trip. Flights to the Kruger area are limited, so we spent a night near the airport before continuing on, more on that below.

Getting to Hoedspruit

Because flights into Hoedspruit (HDS), the gateway airport for this part of Kruger, don’t run often, we spent a night at City Lodge right at OR Tambo Airport in Johannesburg. It was exactly what it needed to be, an easy walk from the terminal, fine for a quick overnight reset before an early flight the next morning.

The next morning we flew from JNB to HDS and were picked up by our lodge.

Tomo Safari Lodge

I was completely mind-blown by this place. The vibe, the luxury, and the fact that impalas and kudus just wander in and out of the lodge grounds like it’s nothing, it didn’t feel real. We arrived into unusually windy conditions, a rare wind storm for the area, though thankfully no rain.

Thatched-roof main lodge at Tomo Safari Lodge
Open-air lounge with leather sofas at Tomo Safari Lodge
Suite living room with a cowhide rug at Tomo Safari Lodge
Bedroom under a thatched ceiling at Tomo Safari Lodge

One disappointment: the sunrise hot air balloon safari that was on our itinerary got cancelled because of the wind. If you’re planning a Kruger trip around a balloon ride specifically, build in some flexibility, since weather can take it off the table with little notice.

Game drive one: the variety hits you fast

Our first game drive was that same afternoon, and the sheer range of animals we saw in just a few hours was wild: baboons, impalas, kudus, giraffes, zebras, elephants, rhinos, and even a boa and a cobra.

Herd of impalas on dry grassland during a game drive in the greater Kruger area
Giraffe walking through the bush in the greater Kruger area
African elephant in the dry bush in the greater Kruger area
Rhino moving through dry bush in the greater Kruger area

Game drives two and three: lions, up close

The next morning and afternoon drives brought lions, water buffalo, and more elephants. Our final morning drive added a hyena mother with her babies, more zebras, elephants, and giraffes.

Male lion resting in the grass in the greater Kruger area
Cape buffalo in the dry grass in the greater Kruger area

By the end, elephants started to feel almost common, right alongside impalas, they were genuinely everywhere. It’s strange in a good way to see how much of the landscape, endless bush dotted with broken, half-eaten trees, is basically shaped by how many elephants live there.

Elephant walking through dry grass in the greater Kruger area

But the lions were the real standout. We came across a family of around fifteen, mothers, a father, and cubs, moving together from one area to another. They walked right past our vehicle, and their eyes genuinely gave me chills, like they were locked onto something with laser focus. What struck me most was how well they blend into the bush, I actually struggled to spot them even when our guide pointed right at them. I still don’t fully understand how anything else in that ecosystem manages to see them coming in time.

Lionesses resting together in the bush in the greater Kruger area
Male lion with a dark mane lying in the grass in the greater Kruger area
Spotted hyena beside a fallen tree in the greater Kruger area

Heading out

On the drive to the airport we passed warthogs digging through trash, a funny, slightly less glamorous send-off. We picked up a few souvenirs before flying out, HDS to JNB, then JNB to EWR, closing out the whole trip.

Practical tips for packing

A few things worth having if you’re planning a safari of your own:

  • Sunglasses that block side light, not just regular ones. Wind and glare come from every angle on an open game vehicle, so something wraparound helps a lot.
  • Layer your clothing. We went during the shoulder between summer and fall, and it got genuinely cold at night and early morning, even though days were warm. Most lodges provide blankets and rain ponchos on the vehicles, but I’d still bring your own layers rather than rely on that alone.
  • Comfortable sneakers. You’re not hiking, but you are getting in and out of vehicles and walking around the lodge grounds a fair amount.
  • Neutral-colored clothing, partly for the classic safari photos, but also just practical, bright colors stand out more to wildlife and in photos both.
  • A hat or cap. Sun exposure adds up fast during midday drives.
  • Digestion supplements or medicine, just in case. And if you tend to struggle with unfamiliar food when traveling, pack some shelf-stable snacks or meals as backup.
  • The basics: toothbrush and toothpaste, skincare and cosmetics, extra socks and underwear, sunscreen, and bug spray. We didn’t end up needing the bug spray since we went in winter, but I’d still pack it, conditions can vary by lodge and season.

More from this trip